Before FAIR routes an oriental rug or textile file, send the full front, full back, clear scale, weave close-ups, fringe, selvedges, corners, labels, condition issues, measurements, and provenance documents. Do not clean, trim, force open, or unframe anything just for photos. If the textile is brittle, folded, mounted, damp, or shedding, photograph it safely as found and explain what could not be shown.
Match the appraiser to the item category.
Confirm the report purpose before pricing.
Compare fee disclosure before outreach.
Need the right appraiser path?
Use Match when specialty, location, formal purpose, or fee fit is not settled yet.
Checklist pages are meant to improve the intake file. Better photos and notes help the appraiser decide scope, risk, and whether a formal report is justified.
When checklist work prevents rework
Situation
Formal appraisal?
Why it matters
You are still identifying the object
Prepare first
Photos, measurements, marks, condition notes, and provenance can change the next step.
The item may be valuable or disputed
Often yes
Condition, authenticity, completeness, and market evidence can materially affect value.
You only need better intake photos
Not yet
Use the checklist before asking for a quote so the appraiser can scope accurately.
Next step
Turn the guide into a shortlist.
Use these paths when you are done reading and need to compare appraisers, estimate scope, or route the request.
Start with full front, full back, and scale photos
A specialist needs the whole object first. A medallion, label, or damage close-up helps, but it cannot replace the complete view.
Photograph the entire front straight-on in even light, with all borders, corners, and ends visible.
Photograph the entire back or reverse side when the object can be turned safely; if not, explain why the reverse is not accessible.
Add one scale view in the room, on a clean neutral surface, or beside a measuring tape so the specialist understands format and size before close-ups.
For runners, room-size rugs, panels, samplers, tapestries, quilts, or grouped textiles, create a numbered image sequence so each object stays tied to its own details and paperwork.
Weave, knot, pile, and foundation close-ups
Good close-ups show construction, not only pattern. Match front and back views from the same zones when you can.
Take close-ups of the field, border, corner, and any signature or inscription area from the front.
Photograph the same zones from the back when possible so knots, weft, warp, flatweave structure, or backing can be compared.
Use angled light for pile height, wear direction, texture changes, low areas, and repairs, but avoid harsh flash that washes out color.
Do not pull fibers, cut threads, burn-test material, or scrape foundation areas to prove wool, cotton, silk, linen, or metal thread content.
Fringe, selvedge, corners, and end finishes
Ends and edges often decide whether a rug is complete, reduced, overcast, re-fringed, patched, or altered for display. Photograph them in context and detail.
Capture both fringed ends, both side selvedges, all four corners, and any area where the border looks shortened or uneven.
Add close-ups of missing fringe, sewn-on fringe, overcasting, binding, edge curling, unraveling, reduced ends, and old repairs.
For textiles, photograph hems, stitched edges, tabs, linings, hanging sleeves, mounts, frames, backing fabrics, and any later display hardware.
Do not trim loose fringe, tape edges down, remove backing, or detach mounts before the first specialist review.
Condition issues to document before routing
Condition photos need context. Take the wider location first, then the detail.
Photograph pile wear, foundation exposure, moth damage, holes, tears, stains, color run, sun fade, water exposure, odors, dry rot, brittle fibers, and pulled threads.
Show old repairs, reweaving, patching, tinting, backing, lining, adhesive residue, frame stress, fold splits, weakened corners, and areas that have been cut down or joined.
Take one wider image of each damaged area, then one close-up that shows texture, edge condition, and whether the damage reaches the foundation or support.
If the rug or textile is damp, mold-suspect, shedding, cracking, or actively losing fibers, stop handling and photograph the supported state instead of opening or turning it further.
Labels, tags, inscriptions, and provenance documents
Documents are useful only when they stay tied to the exact rug or textile. Keep labels, records, and object numbers together.
Photograph sewn labels, dealer tags, inventory numbers, exhibition labels, import tags, conservation labels, signatures, inscriptions, and any old handwritten notes attached to the textile.
Pair every label close-up with a wider placement shot so FAIR can see whether it sits on a corner, backing, lining, mount, frame, or separate storage sleeve.
Include invoices, auction records, dealer receipts, prior appraisals, insurance schedules, conservation reports, import documents, collection inventories, and family notes.
If several textiles share one folder of paperwork, label which document belongs to which object and photograph the group inventory before separating records.
Measurements and inventory notes
Measurements help FAIR decide whether this is a simple specialist review, a large-item inspection question, or a grouped estate textile file.
Measure length and width without fringe first, then record fringe length separately when it matters.
For irregular textiles, include maximum dimensions plus notes on shape, reductions, stitched joins, missing sections, or mounted edges.
For groups, number each rug or textile, record dimensions beside that number, and keep photos, documents, and condition notes in the same order.
State the intended use: insurance scheduling, estate or probate, donation, sale planning, equitable distribution, collection review, or general identification.
Safe handling before FAIR sends the file to specialists
The photo packet should not create new damage. Incomplete safe photos are better than complete photos taken after forced handling.
Use clean hands or gloves appropriate to the textile, support weak areas from underneath, and avoid dragging rugs across abrasive floors.
Roll large rugs around a wide support when moving is necessary; avoid tight folds, sharp creases, or hanging fragile textiles by weak edges.
Keep food, moisture, tape, clips, pins, pets, vacuum beater bars, and direct sun away from the object during photography.
Tell FAIR what could not be photographed safely so the rug or textile specialist can decide whether conservation advice or in-person inspection should come before valuation.
Common questions
What are the minimum photos for a rug appraisal intake? Start with full front and full back photos, dimensions, close-ups of the field, border, corners, fringe, selvedges, labels, and condition issues. Add documents and a short intended-use note.
Do I need to photograph the back of an oriental rug? Usually yes, if it can be turned safely. The back can show knot structure, foundation, repairs, reductions, backing, and labels that are not visible from the front.
Should I trim or straighten fringe before taking photos? No. Fringe, end finishes, and edge wear are evidence. Photograph them as found instead of trimming, taping, combing, or replacing them before specialist review.
How should I photograph a fragile textile that cannot be unfolded? Photograph the supported folded state, visible edges, labels, storage materials, and any safe partial openings. Do not force folds, flatten brittle areas, or remove old mounts just to finish the checklist.
What documents help with rug or textile appraisal routing? Useful documents include dealer invoices, auction records, prior appraisals, insurance schedules, conservation reports, import papers, exhibition labels, inventory lists, and family notes tied to the exact object.
Can FAIR route a rug or textile file if some photos are missing? Often yes for the first routing step, especially when the missing views would be unsafe. Explain what could not be photographed and why so FAIR can decide whether a rug specialist, textile specialist, conservator, or in-person inspection is the right next step.